A series of articles published in six issues of the magazine "Głos. Tygodnik Literacko-Społeczno-Polityczny' (Nos. 7 and 9-13, 1886) devoted to the history and description of Adapol, a Polish settlement in Turkey.

Summary of articles

The article by M.K. Borkowski presents the history and everyday life of the Polish colony in Adampol (Polonezköy), one of the most famous Polish settlements in Asia Minor. The author draws attention to inaccurate information appearing in the press and refutes claims that the colonists turned to Russia and abandoned their former ideals. Adampol was founded in the mid-19th century on the initiative of Prince Adam Jerzy Czartoryski as part of the Lambert Hotel's efforts to promote Polish emigration. The settlement was to serve as a place of refuge for Polish political refugees after the uprisings of 1831 and 1848, as well as after the Crimean War in 1855. A small group of Poles also found their way to the settlement after the January Uprising of 1863. Borkowski describes the journey to Adampol, which began in Constantinople (Istanbul). The route led through the Bosphorus to Beikos and then through mountainous wilderness. The author highlights the harshness and isolation of the settlement, where there was a lack of paved roads, making communication with the city and trade difficult. Situated amid mountains and oak forests, Adampol was a self-sufficient agricultural settlement. Its inhabitants cultivated the land, raised cattle and produced dairy products, which they sold in Constantinople. The dairy and butchery industry was an important source of livelihood for the colonists, although the lack of infrastructure made it difficult to transport the products. Hunting also played a key role in the colonists' lives, with hunting of wild boar, deer, wolves and other animals providing both food and income from the sale of skins. The forests around Adampol were also used for logging, but this led to their gradual degradation. Despite the harsh conditions, the people of Adampol retained their Polish culture and identity. Their life was centred around the church and traditional rituals. The settlement had a wooden church and a cemetery where many distinguished Poles were buried, including Ludwika Śniadecka, wife of Michał Czajkowski (Sadyk Pasha). The inhabitants of Adampol faced numerous difficulties. The lack of a school was one of the most serious problems - children had no access to education, and attempts to organise one often failed. Help was provided by a few, such as Henryk Groppler, who supplied books and supported teaching. Another problem was the administration of the settlement. Adampol was under the jurisdiction of the French embassy, which formally exercised a protectorate over it. Court cases were decided by the local Turkish authorities or the French consulate, which was often associated with inefficiency and corruption. Relations with the clergy also did not go well. The author mentions, among others, Fr Adryan Kubiak, who abused his authority and failed to account for money allocated for the construction of a new church. Despite many adversities, Adampol became an important place on the map of Polish emigration. It was an example of how Polish refugees were able to adapt to life in a foreign country, preserving their identity and traditions. It was also a centre attracting prominent Poles such as Adam Mickiewicz, Michał Czajkowski and Karol Brzozowski. The author concludes the article with a reflection on the fate of Polish emigrants and their determination to preserve their national identity. Leaving Constantinople, he gazes at Adampol, reflecting on its inhabitants and their future.

Transcription

Part 1 (No. 7)

POLAND IN TURKEY

Details collected and published by

M. K. Borkowski

A Polish colony in Asia Minor is occasionally mentioned in our or foreign diaries, but usually inaccurately. In the spring of this year, news of it appeared in the St. Petersburg journal "Swiet", repeated by other journals, that the Polish colonists in Asia, having abandoned their former revolutionary activities and politics, are now garnering support in Russia. "Foreignness", says "Svet", has forced them to look at the Slavic cause with different eyes. I do not know on what "Swiet" bases his assertion, especially as the "colonists" are not at all engaged in pondering political issues, but in the sweat of their brow get their daily bread. I believe that the fate of our compatriots, thrown into the uninhabited areas of Asia Minor, may be of concern to our society, and for this reason I give the news I have gathered on the spot about this agricultural settlement.

During my stay in Constantinople in 1885, I decided to visit the Polish colony of Adampol, or "Polish Ozyflik" as it is commonly called.

The heat in Constantinople in July reached 45-50 °R. Staying in the city became unbearable; on top of this, the millions of insects and various kinds of vermin, from which the best-built houses are not free, made it impossible to rest at night after the tiring daytime heat. I felt the need of the country air and was only looking for an opportunity to go to Adampol. This opportunity soon presented itself. I made the acquaintance of an Adampol inhabitant, Vincent R., who gave me more information about this colony and invited me to stay with him. From my compatriots in Constantinople I could not get any precise information about Czyflik Polish. Some praised, while others rebuked the Czyflikans, depicting them as oppressors and troublemakers; however, as I later found out, they did not know them well. Already from such diverse sentences I could deduce that close ties between the Poles in Constantinople and Adampol did not exist. In the past the relations between them were constant and closer, but in recent times they have weakened.

In the hope that my description may serve as a guide for some of our tourists when visiting Adampol, I give a detailed description of this colony and the journey to it. Poles in general travel a great deal in Italy, Tyrol, France, etc., and Paris, Nice, Mentona, Interlaken, Montreux, Meran and other places are constantly inhabited by fellow-tourists for good tone and fashion. Many of them could usefully visit Adampol, especially as the climate there is healthy and the views beautiful.

One travels to Adampol from Tsarogrod by steamer to the station of Bejkos (Beicos), which lies on the Asiatic shore. The boat ride takes about two hours and takes place among the beautiful shores of the Bosphorus. Turkish steamers depart from the new Kara-Köy bridge. Beyond the bridge, the long bay of the Golden Horn continues and reaches the Living Waters. Ahead you can see the Marmora, surrounding the promontory on which ancient Istanbul, the Turkish quarter of the city, spread out. Especially the south-eastern part of Istanbul, Kara-Burnum, looks beautiful. There you can see ancient edifices and numerous mosques, the Seraskerijat, the beautiful and new Régie House and other buildings. Among them, the ancient Sophia Mosque (Aja-Sofia) dominates. Magnificent, huge, beautiful and heavy, this edifice, bearing the weight of years and memories, shoots upwards with many minarets with numerous cloisters at the top, from which muezzins call the Orthodox to prayer three times a day.

On the left, you can see the lower part of Constantinople - the Galata with the Galatian Tower, built by the Genoese. This part of the city - commercial and European - connects to Istanbul by bridge. Above Galata, Pera piles up with magnificent edifices, palaces next to shabby houses. Pera is mainly inhabited by foreign embassies and European aristocracy. On the other side of the Bosphorus, opposite the Kara-Köy bridge, Skutari with its beautiful and grand military hospital is scattered on a knoll, and next to Haider-Pasha lies a cypress forest where there is a Turkish cemetery.

The ship on which we depart is crowded and bustling; you can hear the clamour of the traders, the voices of the porters (hamals) and the shouts of the ship's servants. In the harem compartment you can see the beautiful sheltered faces of women with charming eastern eyes. Their veils are so transparent that one can see their exact features; this mystery heightens the impression. The steamer, after much hesitation and waiting, departs at last, passing deftly numerous foreign ships from which flags of various colours are flying: English, French, Russian, Greek and others.

We reach the beautiful shores of Arnautka, Bebek and other places. The views are magnificent, ever new and so varied that, like a kaleidoscope, we get lost in the chaos. Ahead of us on the right side of the Bosphorus is Beikos station - a small Turkish town.

Part 2 (No. 9)

Then, even when the horse is going fast, the guides catch up with it. As roads in the East are poorly maintained or completely absent, all transport business is done on horseback. There is a separate wooden saddle for packs, called a 'Samara'. We were able to communicate with my guide, although with difficulty. This kroat was arranging wells in Adampol. Digging wells in the East is a craft, almost exclusively practised by Kroats, and I was able to see later in Czyflik that it requires skill and proficiency. The water is usually found in very deep seams, and on top of that in stony ground; with augers, chisels and gunpowder, they scoop out the stones and then use brooms and cloth fans to expel the smoke. However, not every farmer owns such a well, as it costs quite a bit of money to set up - between 10 and 20 Turkish lira.

From Bejkos, the road goes uphill along a brick road, but this soon ends and a barely visible path goes on, through myrtle bushes, scrub and deep ravines. The place is wild and bleak. We reach the halfway point where we can see, in a deep basin, a few red Swiss-style houses that look strange in the midst of this wilderness - this is the settlement of Abram-Pasha. We ascend the mountain, from where we can see, against the azure Bosporus and Marmora, the beautiful and magnificent Constantinople in all its grandeur and majesty; but, like an illusion, it disappears immediately, not to appear again. The road becomes more varied. In the distance, a settlement can be seen - this is French Czyflik, which belongs to the order of the Lazarist Fathers. This colony was managed several years ago by Fr. Rogowski, our compatriot, holding the office of father-economist. He was disliked by his subordinates and was eventually murdered by the Amancs through revenge.

The road from Francuski Czyflik to the Polish settlement takes no more than 40 minutes and leads through a beautiful oak forest. On the heights you can see numerous crosses and many graves - this is the cemetery of the Polish colony. In the cemetery there is a beautiful white marble tomb of Ludwika Sniadecka, the second wife of Sadyk-Pasha (Michal Czajkowski), as well as of Michalowski, Kuczynski and many others.

On the hills you can see a row of white houses, scattered here and there among fields and gardens, sheltered from all sides by forests - this is the destination of my journey, the Polish colony on Turkish soil - Adampol!

After a rest in the house of my hospitable host Wincenty B., I went out into the countryside towards evening. I felt that here, in this foreign land, there lived people related to me in speech and spirit. Each settlement there is a separate entity. The houses are scattered in three main directions. It was already well into the evening, the last rays of the setting sun, breaking through the forests and mountains, cast a band of red-golden light on the Polish settlement. You could smell the fresh scent of fields and forest in the air; from all sides came the roar of returning cattle, the calls of peasants and the shouts of housewives; you could see the bustle and haste of the farmers - and everywhere sounded the pure Polish speech, often seasoned with a Mazurian accent.

On the heights you could see a church (rather a chapel), and next to it a traditional Polish bell tower. In the middle of the village, at the crossroads, stood a tall black oak cross. Although the Turkish authorities often visited the area and saw the cross and the chapel, they never showed any disrespect or religious intolerance. Religious persecution in Turkey is often spoken and written about. Nowadays, times have changed. The Turkish people are basically understanding and tolerant. A foreign nationality can develop freely in Turkey. With his faith and nationality, the Turk does not impose himself on anyone.

The Polish colony in Adampol was formed from the emigration of 1831 and 1849 and mainly after the Crimean War of 1855. There are only a few people from the last emigration of 1863.

Adampol was founded by the Czartoryszczyzna. The genesis of the settlement is quite interesting. The documents of the Hotel Lambert in Paris could reveal many interesting pages here.

Part 3 (No. 10)

I was also told that when Prince Radziwill, an adjutant of the German Emperor William, arrived from Berlin a few years ago at W. Porta on diplomatic business, and before leaving wished to visit the Polish Czyflik, then the Turkish government immediately ordered the construction of a road to Adampol. Several thousand workers were to accomplish this work in a few days. Certain sums of money had already been earmarked for this purpose. This would be a great boon for the colony, as there are no roads and only by horseback can it be reached, making communication and the delivery of products to the town very difficult. The Turkish government summoned Dr Drozdowski and he was eventually consulted, but he advised against it, telling Rev. Radziwill that Adampol was inhabited by adventurers and drunkards alone. Rev. Radziwill did not go to Adampol and the construction of the road was abandoned.

After the Crimean War, the English government gave a lot of horses to the Polish colonists (or rather, for formality, they were sold for 5 francs each). Drozdowski kept a certain proportion of these horses for his own use, and sold the rest to the settlers at quite exorbitant prices. So, as we can see, Drozdowski's activities were very harmful. I was told a lot of bad things about him, and one should be surprised at the perseverance and submissiveness of the colonists, who endured the heavy yoke of the Czartoryski family and, in particular, of Dr Drozdowski, for so long.

Adampol lies between the French and German Czyfliks. All that is left of the French Czyflik is the name of the once numerous French colony. This Czyflik is a large walled farm with buildings, inhabited by a dozen people. It is now leased by the Hungarian Ludvic from the Lazarists. The destructive economy here is that he cuts down the beautiful oak forest and sells it for coal. Father Rogowski, whom I have already mentioned, used to manage it on behalf of the Lazarists. A few years ago, the French Czyflik was leased by a countryman of our sad memory named Halicki. Who this Halicki was, where he came from, is not known exactly, even to those who knew him closely. His origins were obscure, unclear and it is not known if this was his real name. He was a spoiled man, a troublemaker, not uncommon in the East. He came, he claimed, from Galicia, which produces a lot of similar types abroad.

When he was expelled from the French Chyflik for destroying forests, in order to do the Turkish government a favour and receive a salary and a post, he testified that there was a conspiracy in Carogród between 12 Poles on the life of the Sultan, and that several of the Adampolans were also supposed to belong to this conspiracy. His other accomplice Zwierzchowski confirmed this testimony. Several people were arrested and many were held responsible. After a rigorous investigation, it emerged that this was a despicable denunciation. Local and foreign newspapers covered the case in their time. Halitski and his wife were imprisoned for five years in a heavy prison, and when the Halitski couple appeared on Istanbul's cobblestones last August after serving their sentence, the Poles asked the Turkish government to expel them, which was immediately done.

The other distasteful personality in the case, Zwierzchowski, was due to be arrested for perjury, embezzlement and counterfeiting of banknotes, but escaped to London from criminal responsibility. In the past, Zwierzchowski was regarded as an "activist" and wanted to fish in murky water, but during the last Turkish war his dirty "manipulations were detected." On the cobblestones of Constantinople they also remember a certain Sharamovich, who in 1866 was also caught in similar manipulations, and everyone broke off contact with him, forcing him to flee to London, where he is also said to be staying at present. It is our duty to shake off all solidarity with such filth.

Part 4 (No 11)

Foreign embassies, hotels and other institutions need dairy products in great quantities, which makes the industry profitable for the colonists. The usual price of Polish butter in Istanbul is between 25 and 30 piastres per eye (£3). However, the delivery of products to Constantinople is hampered by the lack of roads, which significantly increases transport time. Each colonist operates on his own and has his own customers. I proposed setting up a shop in Istanbul, based on co-operative principles, which could bring numerous benefits, facilitating a steady sale and regulating the needs of consumers and producers. Currently, almost all butter is bought by the English and French embassies.

Hunting is also a significant source of income for the colonists, which is mainly carried out by the younger generation. Growing up in these forests, they have become true sons of the forest. In the past, hunting was more profitable, but even today a lot of wild boar, roe deer, wolves, wildcats, badgers, partridges, pigeons and quail are still killed, which brings in quite a profit. One remembers famous hunters such as Karol Brzozowski, Józef Akord, J. Antoniewicz and many others, who often lived exclusively from hunting. It is from this period that K. Brzozowski's famous work 'Night of the Gunners in Anatolia', written among the Adampol forests, comes from.

The forests are jointly owned by the community and each settler has the right to hunt. Only predatory animals can be hunted in the Sultan's forests, requiring special permission from the 'korudji' (forester) to do so. During my stay we often went hunting, and on holidays we organised collective manhunts. These outings were exceptionally picturesque, with a Turkish fez, a Cherokee sheepskin cap, confederate hat, magierka, helmet, hat and other headgear displayed side by side, forming a peculiar but coherent whole.

The Sultan forests impress with their mightiness. Alder trees here reach enormous sizes and make excellent building material. Most game is found in the myrtle thickets, especially wild boar. In some areas, the woods are so dense that even hunting dogs are unable to get through. Ravines and vapours are overgrown with 'dzigra', a hawthorn-like plant whose thorny vines form an almost impassable network. On many occasions, it has happened that cattle, dogs and even people have got lost in these thickets.

One of the most prominent landmarks in the area is Mount Allendah (Allem-Dah), also known as Alan-da or Halanda. It is an important climatic feature for Adampol, protecting the settlement from northern winds. On its summit are the ruins of ancient walls and dungeons, which, according to local legends, hide treasures. They are probably the remains of an ancient fortress from the time of Greek colonisation. Climbing this mountain offers breathtaking views of the Bosphorus, Constantinople, the Black Sea and Marmara. According to local legends, when creating the world, God sat down on Allendah to admire its beauty - and it is hard to disagree.

Evening returns from such excursions often ended in getting lost in the forest darkness. The nocturnal sounds of the forest, the howling of jackals and the wings of frightened birds created a mysterious atmosphere. On one occasion, as we were returning from Allendah, we spotted a glow of fire on the horizon - it was the forests in the vicinity of French Chiffil that were consumed by fire.

Predator hunting in Adampol is communal and compulsory. The biggest threat to the colonists are wolves, which have become very bold and often approach buildings. Jackals are less bold and feed on carrion, often using leftovers left by wolves. After a successful hunt, the boar or roe deer is divided equally between the participants, with the skin and head belonging to the hunter who fired the fatal shot. Those who did not participate in the wolf hunt are obliged to organise refreshments and offer vodka to the hunters.

Evenings after the hunt were spent in a joyful atmosphere with mastic and stories. The younger ones would report on their experiences, while the old varmints would reminisce about past adventures. It usually ended with a joint singing, and songs such as 'Bartosz, Bartosz, oj nie traćta nadziei' resounded amidst the night silence. Everyone added their verse, and the joyful din carried through the forests and valleys.

Part 5 (No 12)

Every foreigner in Turkey must be under the protectorate of some embassy. The Turkish authorities do not detain foreigners, but place them under the jurisdiction of their respective embassies, which have their own institutions, courts, post offices and guards. The colonists in Adampol and other Poles in Turkey are under the protectorate of the French embassy. Formerly, under Sadik-Pasha, this embassy had considerable influence in Turkey, but its role is now more formal.

In Adampol, court cases are resolved through amicable or municipal courts with the participation of councillors. In more serious cases, cases may go to the kaymakan in Beikos. Notarial acts are approved at the French consulate. In the past, during the time of Fr Rogowski and Dr Drozdowski, there were numerous disputes, armed speeches and trials that required the intervention of the French consulate. Today, the situation is stable.

The courts in Bejkos are more informal and more like family meetings. Complaints are made orally and judgements are not in writing. Important documents are often written on the knee over coffee. The lack of systematic record-keeping makes processes difficult. Everything depends on the interpretation of officials and often requires the handing over of a 'bacchus' (bribe) to speed up proceedings.

The lack of a school in Adampol is one of the biggest concerns of the colonists. The young generation suffers the most from the lack of education. In the past, various people have tried to provide books and resources for teaching, but without much success. Henry Groppler, a distinguished countryman, financially supported education in Adampol, but no one could be found who would undertake systematic teaching. The lack of schools was also noted by authors of works on the East, such as W. Koszczyc and T. T. Jeż.

The Groppler family played a significant role in the history of Poles in Turkey. Their house in Bebek is a real museum of Polishness in the East. They have a rich library, valuable paintings and sketches by Jan Matejko, including sketches of the "Sermon of the Complaint", the "Battle of Grunwald" and other great works. Jan Matejko also made portraits of members of the Groppler family during his stay in Istanbul. Henry Groppler made his fortune running marble and borax mines in Asia Minor. His enterprise had previously struggled until, by chance, rich deposits of borax were discovered in his mines, which provided him with a huge income.

In Istanbul, the Gropplers purchased the house where Adam Mickiewicz died. The house was located in the Yenisheri district and was for a long time a national memorial. However, at a later date, J. Katyński demolished the old building and erected a new house, placing a plaque on it to commemorate Mickiewicz's stay.

For years, the Gropplers' salon was a meeting place for eminent Poles, including Adam Mickiewicz, Karol Brzozowski, Michał Czajkowski (Sadyk-Pasha), Ludwika Śniadecka, Prince Czartoryski, Władysław Zamoyski and many others. Today it remains an important cultural centre, attracting writers, artists, diplomats and scientists.

A few years ago, thanks to Mrs Groppler's efforts, 7,000 francs were raised for the restoration of the Adampol church, of which 1,500 francs came directly from the Groppler family. Unfortunately, these funds were misdistributed by Father A. Kubiak.

The Groppler house is a place where passing Poles always find hospitality and an atmosphere reminiscent of their homeland.

Part 6 (no. 13)

In the past, religious services in Adampol were provided by the Lazarist Fathers, Father Rogowski or a Catholic priest from Istanbul came several times a year. The Adampol parish is under the authority of the Catholic bishop in Constantinople. All ecclesiastical and religious matters are decided directly or indirectly by the bishop; he also appoints and approves the clerical guide for the Polish colonists.

In Adampol I still found a parish priest, a Franciscan from Galicia, Fr Adryan Kubiak. Fatal fate plagued the poor farmers, as people unworthy of caring for the community were often placed there. Fr Kubiak was one such clergyman. Despite his initial praise, he left hated by both the colonists and the Poles in Istanbul. He lived immorally and exploited the poor settlers, forcing them to make numerous offerings to the church. To those who did not pay enough, he refused the sacraments and publicly cursed them.

The money collected to build the church in Adampol - about 7,000 francs - was given to Fr Kubiak by the bishop, but he did not account for it and never completed the building. After his departure, the residents had neither a church, building materials nor money.

Despite the difficulties, the colonists retained their Polish identity. Representatives of different social strata settled in Adampol: nobility, officials, burghers and peasants. State antagonisms disappeared as everyone had to work hard, clearing forests and cultivating the land. Ultimately, diligence, honesty and common sense determined one's position in the community.

Although the settlers were loyal to their heritage, the lack of a school was a major problem. The idea of establishing a Polish school in Adampol was raised many times, but never came to fruition due to lack of funds and support. Only a few people, such as Henryk Groppler, tried to improve the situation by providing books and supporting education.

During my stay in Constantinople, I tried to promote the idea of a Polish school for Adampolan children. However, the majority of Poles in Istanbul belonged to the working class and lived from day to day, unable to offer significant financial assistance. Although there was a Mutual Aid Society, its activities were modest and did not include extensive education.

Should any countryman wish to visit Adampol, he should not look there for strong impressions, heroes or scholars. Instead, he will find simple but hard-working and honest people who have preserved their Polish identity despite adversity. If the visitor is able to see the true value of these people and speak to them with a warm, Polish word, he will be met with kindness and a brotherly handshake.

Last autumn I was leaving Istanbul. Several people escorted me to the ship. I was saying goodbye to Istanbul and Adampol, leaving friends there. As the ship left Carogród and passed Beikos, I gazed long in the direction of Adampol. The sun, as if to say goodbye, cast its purple light on the summit of Allendach for the last time. However, my thoughts wandered further afield - to the Adampolans, under their thatched roofs, and for a long, long time I mused about them....