Published in Rome in 1700, the work of the Warmian canon Antonio Bassani, 'Viaggio a Roma' (Journey to Rome), is a remarkable book. For it is a chronicled, detailed record of the ceremonial entry into the Eternal City that the queen-widow made over a period of almost six months (October 1698 - March 1699), feted by cities and courts along the way. The concept of the work, which draws on entrées and descriptions of ceremonies involving titled persons popular in the 17th century, was tuned to the importance of the event. Here, the widow of a victor from Vienna, particularly revered in the papal city, leaves the place of her exaltation to devote herself to pious practices in the Eternal City proper to the widowed state. She had worthy predecessors in her decision, such as Christina of Sweden (d. 1689), whose Roman court became a significant centre of political and cultural life.

The person of John III is present in the pages of Bassani's book. Not only are his services mentioned on various occasions, but there is also information about the deposition of his body in the Capuchin church in Warsaw. Maria Kazimiera's retinue made frequent appearances at places marked by her husband's presence at the time of the Vienna Victory, and even at the court in Vienna the relief was mentioned in conversations, expressing gratitude to the queen. On her way to Rome, Maria Kazimiera was accompanied by her husband's fame. As Bassani wrote, the crowds greeting her, especially on Italian soil, were curious about her not only as queen, but as the wife of 'the invincible Giovanni' (p. 137, the page numbers given refer to the Roman edition of Bassani's work). Maria Kazimiera's journey was a media event, involving courts and cities. Polish and foreign newspapers wrote about it and reported on the meetings held. On the roads and squares, she was accompanied by crowds of onlookers and groups of beggars hoping for royal alms.

Maria Kazimiera's retinue was by design a royal one, as she wanted to enter Rome 'as queen and as king'. It was estimated at three hundred people and five hundred horses. The 'caravan' was decorated with camels. The Queen was accompanied by servants, courtiers, guards and court officials, including the cook Wierusz Kowalski and the court physician Maheu. Maria Kazimiera's closest circle were the members of her family: her father, the now elderly Cardinal Henri Albert de la Grange d`Arquien, her brother, Anne Louis d`Arquien, Count de Maligny, her two younger sons, Alecander and Constantine, and her granddaughter Maria Kazimiera (Jacob's daughter). Mention should also be made of diplomats: the Bavarian elector's envoy Pompea Scarlatti (he remained on duty in Rome) and the Venetian resident in Poland, Girolamo Alberti.

Individuals joined or separated at various stages of the journey. The Voivode of Bełz, Elżbieta Helena Sieniawska, reached Opava with the Queen only, presented with a carriage as a farewell gift. In Krakow, she was joined by, among others, the Bishop of Livonia, Mikołaj Popławski, the Queen's confessor, her chancellor and secretary, the Krakow canon Jan Franciszek Kurdwanowski, the maid of honour at the Queen's court, Anna Morsztynówna, and, in the role of governess to the royal granddaughter, Mrs Wodzińska (sister of the postmaster Bartłomiej Sardi). In Silesia, the retinue was joined by Prince James, then residing in Oława, and the young Marquis Louis Marie Victor de Béthune, the Queen's nephew. The sons accompanied their mother on the journey as far as Vienna. At the border of the Church State, the retinue was joined by Antonio Felice Zondadari, who welcomed her on behalf of Pope Innocent XII.

Leaving the Republic, Maria Kazimiera did not give up her political ambitions or her dreams of a crown for one of her sons. It is otherwise known that the Viennese court was high on her agenda. Bassani writes nothing about the diplomatic talks undertaken with Leopold I and the ambassadors. Maria Kazimiera met with the imperial couple at St Catherine's Church. The queen was accompanied by her sons, the royal and the cardinal-father. In her talks with the French ambassador, the queen declared her attachment to her homeland and Louis XIV; in reality, she was playing a double game, oriented towards the return of the crown to the Sobieski family.

Thanks to Bassani's meticulous account, we can accompany Maria Kazimiera from the day she parted from Yavorov on 2 October 1698, when she boarded her coach after a service at the Dominican church, farewelled by the weeping of her alms-laden subjects. In rain and mud, the journey of the retinue of thirty carriages and carts began. The long journey with a large retinue must have been long, as stops were made along the way for longer stays. From Yavrovo, the journey continued to the residence in Wysock, to which the Queen bid farewell for a fortnight. The next Polish stages of the journey were Jarosław (14-15 X) with its famous Jesuit college, Przeworsk (16 X), and finally the Lubomirski residence in Łańcut (16 X).

The Queen entered Kraków incognito (to avoid publicity), forgoing a ceremony appropriate to her position (22 X).

The border between the Republic of Poland and Silesia, which belonged to the Empire, was crossed on 29 X. Maria Kazimiera and her attendants travelled through Racibórz, Opava and Olomouc to Vienna. The imperial capital was visited incognito on 25 XI, and she remained there for nine days in imperial hospitality. The next major stages of the Queen's journey to Italy were the Benedictine Abbey of Melk, Salzburg, Innsbruck and Trent, where the New Year was welcomed. In the Republic of Venice, the Polish queen visited, among others, Verona, Vicenza, Padua and Venice, where she stayed for three weeks. Ferrara, Bologna and Loreto were important points on the journey through the Church State. The visit to Loreto was commemorated by a commemorative newspaper, which included additional details of the stay, including a list of the victuals offered to the Queen, not omitting coffee and wine from Montepulciano ("Relazione del trattamento fatta nella S. Casa, e città di Loreto alla maestà di Maria Casimira, Regina di Polonia di passaggio alla volta di Roma", Roma, Luca Antonio Chracas, 1699). This was followed by trips to Perugia, Grego and Spoleto. Maria Kazimiera arrived in Rome on the evening of 23 III 1699. She arrived concealing her name, leaving the court in Rignano. The queen's first Roman address was a palace belonging to Baron Giovanni Battista Scarlatti, who was a diplomat of the Elector of Bavaria Maximilian II Emmanuel. For the following night she had already moved to her permanent residence (1699-1702), the palace of Livia Odescalchi, a relative of Innocent XI, where Cristina of Sweden had previously resided.

"Viaggio a Roma" is a book of interest not only because of the crowned heroine of the journey or the realities suitable for an adventure novel. The journey set out late in the day, so the travellers were vexed by the cold and snowy blizzards that made up a difficult and dangerous journey ("grave e pericoloso viaggio"). Like all travellers of old, the members of Maria Kazimiera's court were also confronted with unexpected accidents. Difficult river crossings, the fear of wolves in winter, the lack of horses or comfort in inns, and finally overturning carriages and the dangers of precipices are the reality of past travellers, in this case: the envelopment of the heroine's heroism, who, unafraid of the harsh season, the mountains, the Alpine roads, travelled towards Rome "a considerable part of our hemisphere" (p. 225). In keeping with the habits and interests of the era, the unusual phenomena accompanying the 'famoso viaggio' are also noted, such as the great falling star (12 X). An additional element of the account is the historical threads that appear in connection with the towns and edifices visited by Maria Kazimiera. Bassani's work can therefore be read as a kind of guide to places worth seeing. Mention is made, for example, of the miraculous crucifix at Wawel Castle or the sanctuary of St Stanislaus in his home town of Szczepanów, the glass manufactory in Murano, the House of Loretto, and numerous Italian palaces and churches. Among other things, Bassani included a detailed description (including the painting decoration) of Rome's Palazzo del Duca di Bracciano.

The Queen's journey was framed by ceremony. It was accompanied by meetings, speeches and gestures appropriate to the circumstances. The ceremonial forms were also marked by local colour, as etiquette was presented differently at the imperial court and differently, for example, in Venice, especially during the Carnival. Bassani meticulously detailed the more or less titled guests and travellers met by the Polish queen, all ambassadors and party guests, among whom were also Poles. Particularly important were the encounters with people connected to the history of John III, such as the Capuchin Marco d`Aviano. Descriptions of palaces and manors are, in 'Viaggio a Roma', comfortable accommodations, parties, dances (e.g. danza ala maniera polacca, p. 116), beautiful courtesans, tables full of victuals and precious liquors, including 'the finest wines' (delicatissimi vini). Gifts to the queen (including flowers, fruit, fish, game, costly jewellery items) - including precious curiosities ('rarita pretiose') and noble gallantries ('nobilissime galanterie') - were fondly detailed on the pages of the work. The most abundant and refined culinary items and sweets (including pistachios in jam, candied oranges, Sienese marzipans) were offered to the Queen by Cardinal Carlo Barberini (pp. 209-211). Bassani is also indebted to a detailed description of the livery and carriages prepared for the ceremonial entry of the Polish queen to the papal audience, which took place as late as 28 June 1699. With its colour and splendour, the setting of Marysieńka's Roman court surpassed the memorable processions of Polish ambassadors.

In the pages of his work, Bassani spoke of the Queen in superlatives, bestowing upon her the most dignified adjectives. Maria Kazimiera is the Most Gracious Lady ('Clementissima Signora') and the Great Queen ('Grande Regina'). A person endowed with discretion and nobility, a generous and merciful almsgiver. With attentiveness, the canon referred to the affectionate relationship linking mother and sons and gave an extensive account of the Queen's despondency after the separation. The Queen is repeatedly portrayed in the pages of 'Vaggio' as a pious person, fond of attending church ceremonies or worshipping miraculous images or relics. She was, after all, a queen and lady of pilgrimage ('Dama Pellegrinante'). This did not prevent the presentation of the ruler's amazements during her travels, her private tastes and interests, such as mineral waters. Numerous praises were also bestowed on members of the royal family in the pages of Bassani's work. The queen's brother gained the chronicler's admiration when he donated 30,000 florins for the rebuilding of Rzeszów, destroyed by fire, which equated to his income in Lithuania. His granddaughter was characterised as a girl of incredible vitality ("vigore incredibile") and the liveliest mind ("spirito vivacissimo"). The characterisation of the cardinal father, who caused trouble with his unconventional behaviour on the journey, is rich in anecdotal tales, including the boisterous riding of his favourite horse Sambora or his escapes from his daughter's court. With panegyrical intent, Bassani referred to the 'Regno di Polonia', celebrating the military might of the Republic and the virtue of its citizens, especially the late John III and the Sobieski princes, who inherited heroic paternal virtues (p. 152).

The author's persona also presents itself on the pages of the work in question. He was able to combine a solemn tone with humour and irony. For Bassani knew how to joke about his own gout, finding a liking for humorous incidents during his travels. He cites, for example, the misunderstanding of an order to buy for the court (leather trousers instead of hens) or the travellers' joy at good wine, which replaced the cold beer cost in Poland.

Bassani's panegyric message stands in contrast to the reality in which Maria Kazimiera was leaving the Republic. Disgruntled, offended and embittered, having made property divisions, she was leaving a state in which there was no place for the wife of a former electoral ruler with political ambitions and pretensions. This does not alter the fact that the picture of the trimphal march that Bassani left behind is a fascinating creation for the modern reader, corresponding to the ceremonial formula afforded to the crowned.

Maria Kazimiera remained in Rome until 1714. On a papal galley, she sailed to Marseilles, then arrived at the chateau of Blois on the Loire, offered to her for life by Louis IV.

The text comes from PASAŻ WIEDZY , where you can find more reliable texts on Old Polish history and culture

Courtesy of the King John III Wilanów Palace Museum